Steve Edmunds is the unsung hero of California wine

[Esther Mobley, San Francisco Chronicle]

More than once, Edmunds' savior has been Ron Mansfeld, who farms several vineyards in El Dorado County and has planted various varieties at Edmunds' request. In 2000, when he asked Mansfeld to plant some Gamay at the Witters Vineyard — Edmunds longed to make wine like cru Beaujolais, ...

Unmoored from the structures that tend to prop up California wine businesses — vineyards, wineries, regional organizations — Edmunds is something of an island. With no winery of his own, the Edmunds St. John brand has drifted between various production facilities over the years. Edmunds has no employees: no assistant winemaker, no marketing manager, no salesperson. He has no land, either, and ...